After a hearty coffee-bananas breakfast we started our jeep/boat tour to the Guna Yala Islands in the north of Panama (Atlantic ocean). The area is inhabited and governed by the Kuna people, an indigenous tribe that lives mainly from fishing (men) and the creation of molas, colorful textiles (woman). They live on these islands highly autonomous and still stick to their own traditions and believes. I heard quite a bit about them in Medellin (Juan, a friend of my flat mate there was of Kuna descent).
The Kuna recently opened their islands to some moderate tourism, but on a very primitive scale. First, it is quite costly to get to their land (150USD), you have to pass a border control and there are no hotels or hostels on the islands. Actually there are no proper houses at all. Instead there are some huts (made of natural materials) and the rest is just Palm trees. There are more than 350 islands around, so small and close to each other, that navigating through the sea between them is almost like driving on some kind of road.
The trip to the islands
Our group landed on one of these islands (AsserYalaDup). We got rid of our luggage and then went “island hopping”. Unfortunately we didn't get much sun today, but is was still very warm and pleasant. Our meals consisted of what the Kuna gave us (vegetables, fresh fish and coconuts). However, our tour guides sponsored a 2L bottle of vodka, so it became a VERY relaxing day on the islands.
Most of the islands you could circle in 5-10 min. On one of my walks I met an older Kuna lady that started talking to us. That time I was the only one knowing any Spanish. So what I understood was, that she and her husband life on this island just for a couple of months. Usually they stay with the rest of their family on one of the “city island” (these are completely covered with huts, I saw them the second day). You could clearly feel the matriarchal difference in power when her husband joined us. The women are all dressed in colorful and impressive robes (after their marriage) and they do all the interaction with the tourists. Not in the intrusive touristy way but keeping a respectful distance.
our group, only 6 people stayed overnight
our huts at the beach
The second island we went to was quite empty leave a alone a bar that was build into the sea. It was just super relaxing.
Back to the first island (where we would sleep) we spend the rest of the day playing beach volleyball (yes, even I did :D). After dinner I relaxed a bit at the pier with my French roommate when one of the Kuna guides came to us and started talking about the transition of the Kuna society. Their country as it is now will cease to exist in the coming decades. First of all, the sea levels are rising (global warming) and they are already losing whole cities (most islands are not even 1m high!). And furthermore, most young Kuna people crave for a western products and education (soda, music, universities). The basic and self sufficient lifestyle that has preserved the islands and the Culture of the Kuna seems ideal for many westerners but at least the young people here wont continue. There was so much more about it. Ask me again if you like.
PS:
When I woke up that night I took a bath in the warm sea. Bioluminescent plankton created star like blue sparks along the shores. So when you are swimming it was like swimming through the night sky. Furthermore the disturbed plankton created an aura like blue glow around you. I cannot describe that experience, it was absolutely magical!
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